Sea Change

While I've been to the ocean a handful of times over the past month, it’s been tough finding time to surf. I had two regular slots that I kept missing because of non-negotiable conflicts. So when I could, I slipped away, slid into my wetsuit, and played in the water, even when I didn't take my surfboard out. Something is better than nothing, I reasoned. Read more...

After parking in the Soul Grind lot this evening, I pulled my four bags—purse, work backpack, post-surfing dry clothes bag, and post-surfing wet clothes bag—out of my car. This tiny lot is wedged between the main beach parking (a.k.a. the Taco Hell lot) and the surf shops. It's spillover beach parking, and Traveler is a couple storefronts in, so this is where I park now Read more...

I went out with Alvaro this morning on a pretty flat day. When the waves came, I rode the first one all the way in. I did this a few times during my first ever surf lesson on an enormous board on Maui. But in Pacifica, I usually fall off long before I make it to shore. Then I knee-surfed all the remaining ones so Read more...

One wonderful feature of Mar Vista is the farm’s deeded access to the private beach across the street. After a two-minute walk through a private alley and down some stairs, one tiny spot of ocean is all mine. I’ve spent a little bit of every day at the ocean, but not more than a few minutes before today. For one thing, I’m here to work. Read more...

I hadn’t surfed for a week and a half before this morning. I had to prioritize other appointments last Sunday morning and Wednesday evening, my standing surf times. Today, I was going to surf in West Marin, with an instructor a friend knows out there. The instructor canceled this morning, and since I store Margo Linda Beast in Pacifica, I went to Linda Mar. It Read more...

Just over three weeks ago, I announced in a few places that I was seeking fifty women and nonbinary people who surf, to be potential interviewees for my book. At some point in the past few weeks, I reduced my number to thirty, to give more word count to each profile than fifty features would allow. This will also help me meet the very tight Read more...