Stories about evolution and grit through life’s challenges.

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Kook

If you had told me three months ago that these would be scenes from my life, I would have said you were cuckoo. Now, it is I who am the kook, a term which means "beginner" in surfer vernacular. Actually, a kook is more like a poser who brags about being a great surfer but who is terrible, which doesn't fit since I'm content with Read more...

Margo Linda Beast

This evening, I took Margo Linda Beast, my new and first surfboard, out on the water for the first time. She was resplendent. After buying her on Sunday, I asked my friends what I should name her. I loved many of the suggestions, so much so that I briefly considered renaming her on a quarterly basis. But this would entail regularly updating my Facebook world, Read more...

Simon and Sharkbanz

My office suitemate Simon, a lawyer with another firm, talks about sharks more than the average bear. (Bet you didn’t know bears spoke of sharks. That is today’s lesson for you.) Simon’s shark talk coincided with my telling him in May that I’d started surfing. Since then, he’s been regularly warning me that sharks prey on seals in distress, and that when I fall off Read more...

Surfing Injuries

Tonight, I asked Alvaro what his worst surfing injury has been to date. He told me about a time when a flying surfboard hit him right between the eyes. I'll spare you the gory details about the effect on his face. "It's so important to be calm no matter what happens out there," he added. "If a board hits you, if a shark attacks you, Read more...

A Surfer’s Trunk

When Alvaro and I finish my Sunday morning surfing lessons, it's 9:30 or 10:00 a.m., depending when we started. At that time, more drivers covet spots in the Taco Hell parking lot than are available. So once I reach my car, there's always someone waiting who was driving behind me as I walked over to it. "Are you leaving?" they always ask. My answer is Read more...

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